Since 2022 · New Delhi

We make two things,
and we make them properly.

Bronze tools for the body, and mops for the floor. They have less in common than a marketing deck would like — but both come down to the same question: does the thing still work in year three?

The beginning

Cleaning supplies first

Livronic started in Bakkarwala, on the western edge of New Delhi, as a wholesaler and retailer of floor-cleaning equipment. Flat mops, round mops, telescopic handles, refill pads. Unglamorous, high-volume, and an education in exactly which component fails first when you build to a price.

The answer, almost always, was the handle lock. So we stopped using plastic twist collars and moved to a metal cam. That one change is still the reason our 18-inch flat mop has the reviews it does.

The Kansa line came later, and for a plainer reason than the story usually told: someone in the family had been using a bronze vatki on their feet every night for forty years, and the ones you could buy online were thin, plated, and wrong.

The material

What Kansa actually is

Kansa is the Indian name for bronze — an alloy of roughly seventy-eight parts copper to twenty-two parts tin. In classical Ayurveda it is the metal of choice for touching skin, because it conducts heat in a way that iron and steel do not: it reaches your body temperature in seconds and then stays there.

That matters more than it sounds. A jade or rose-quartz tool stays cold and the muscle underneath stays tight. Kansa warms with you, so the tissue lets go.

The grey marks it leaves on oiled skin are a genuine chemical reaction between the copper and the oil, and in the tradition they are read as excess heat leaving the body. Whatever you make of that reading, they wash off and stain nothing.

Every Kansa surface we sell is solid alloy. Nothing is plated. A plated tool wears through in months and the base metal underneath is anyone's guess.

The tool should outlive the person who bought it.
The whole brief

Care guide

Keeping a Kansa tool alive

  1. Wipe it dry, every time

    Water sitting on the join between bronze and wood is the only thing that will kill this tool. Ten seconds with a cloth after each use.

  2. Never soak or submerge

    And never a dishwasher. The heat and detergent will dry the teak out and lift the finish.

  3. Feed the wood twice a year

    A drop of any neutral oil, rubbed in with your fingers and left overnight. Teak that goes pale is teak that is thirsty.

  4. Let the bronze patina

    It will darken. That is what bronze does, and it changes nothing about how it works. If you want the shine back, a cut lemon and a pinch of salt will do it.

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